Mikvé Israel-Emanuel Synagogue
Mikvé Israel-Emanuel (Mikvé Israel) Synagogue, located at Hanchi Snoa 29 in downtown Willemstad, Curaçao, is the oldest continuously functioning Jewish house of worship in the Western Hemisphere. This incredible building, dating back to 1732, is a symbol of the island’s important Sephardic Jewish community.
The History and Lesser-Known Stories of the Synagogue
The roots of Curaçao’s Jewish community trace back to Samuel Cohen, who arrived in 1634 as an interpreter for Johan van Walbeeck during the Dutch conquest of the island. In 1651, a group of 10 to 12 families from Amsterdam’s Sephardic Portuguese community, led by Joao d’Ylan, settled on the island as agricultural pioneers. These settlers were descendants of Spanish and Portuguese Jews who had fled the Inquisition, seeking refuge in the Netherlands.
By 1654, these families had established Congregation Mikvé Israel. They brought with them a Torah scroll, a gift from the Amsterdam Jewish community, which remains in use today—an extraordinary testament to the continuity of their traditions.
As Curaçao became a critical hub of trade between Northern Europe and South America, its Jewish population flourished, reaching about 1,500 by the mid-1700s. The Jews of Curaçao played pivotal roles in commerce, shipping, and even the expansion of Jewish communities across the Americas, including influential migrations to Suriname, the United States, and the Caribbean.
The Synagogue Building
The current synagogue, inaugurated in 1732, replaced earlier structures built to accommodate the growing congregation. Modeled after the Portuguese Synagogue in Amsterdam (constructed in 1675), it reflects the grandeur and architectural elegance of the Sephardic tradition.
Imported Materials: The synagogue was built with materials brought over by ship from the Netherlands, including mahogany wood for the ark, benches, and bimah, as well as the stunning copper chandeliers. One chandelier, believed to have come from the previous building, hangs closest to the ark and retains a unique historical charm.
Sand-Covered Floors: One of the synagogue's most intriguing features is its sand-covered floor. While its exact origins remain debated, two prevailing interpretations lend it symbolic weight:
The sand represents the 40 years the Israelites spent wandering in the desert during the Exodus.
It commemorates the clandestine worship practices of Jews during the Inquisition, who used sand to muffle the sounds of their prayers in secret.
Whatever its origins, the sand-covered floor creates a profound and unique spiritual atmosphere, allowing worshippers to feel a direct connection to their ancestors’ struggles and faith.
Mahogany and Azure: The synagogue's dark mahogany wood contrasts beautifully with its azure stained-glass windows, which bathe the interior in soft blue light. This harmonious blend of materials and colors evokes both reverence and tranquility.
Rituals
The synagogue follows the Sephardic tradition, blending Portuguese and Hebrew in its liturgy. Each Torah service begins with a blessing in Portuguese for the Royal House of Orange, a tradition that acknowledges the protection granted to Jewish settlers by the Dutch monarchy.
The governance of the synagogue in its early years extended beyond religious matters. Board members, seated in a raised section under the clock, mediated disputes and served as de facto judges in civil matters. Their elevated position, near the synagogue's windows, also gave them access to the coolest spot in the building—a subtle nod to their authority.
Hanchi Snoa Street
Fun fact: The synagogue street’s name, Hanchi Snoa, is a combination of Hanchi, the local Creole word for alley, and Snoa, an abbreviation of Esnoga, the traditional Judaeo-Spanish (Sephardic) word for synagogue.)
The Schism of 1863
The mid-19th century brought challenges to the synagogue as the Reform movement, originating in Germany, began influencing Jewish communities worldwide. Younger members of Mikvé Israel, inspired by modernist ideas, sought changes to traditional practices. However, the Orthodox leadership resisted these calls for reform, leading to a schism in 1863.
The dissenting group formed Temple Emanuel, a Reform congregation that introduced innovations such as an organ in their services. To keep pace, Mikvé Israel also installed an organ—the same one still in use today. Crafted in Holland, it is one of the oldest functioning pipe organs in the world.
The two congregations coexisted separately until 1963, when dwindling membership prompted reunification, exactly 100 years after their division. Today, while Mikvé Israel retains its Sephardic heritage, about 30% of its members are Ashkenazi, reflecting the diverse backgrounds of Curaçao’s Jewish community.
The Museum
The synagogue complex includes the Jewish Historical Cultural Museum, which houses an impressive collection of religious and cultural artifacts. Among its treasures is a silver Chanukiah that has been lit annually for over 300 years, as well as centuries-old marriage contracts, prayer books, and ritual items that provide a window into the lives of Curaçao’s Jewish ancestors.
Anecdotes and Lesser-Known Stories
Breaking the glass: The shul is host to many guests who pick Curacao as a destination for weddings and Bat and Bar Mitzvahs. One lovely wedding ceremony is the breaking of the glass. Instead of crushing the glass on the floor (which is not practical in the sand), the groom smashes the glass on a silver tray (which is well dented :)
Portuguese in Prays: One of the shul’s unique features is the use of Portuguese in its prayers, a tradition that dates back to the 17th century when Sephardic Jews fleeing the Inquisition brought their Iberian customs and language to the New World. Portuguese was the mother tongue of many of the Jewish families.
The Congregation’s Role in the Diaspora: Curaçao's Jews were instrumental in founding Jewish communities elsewhere. For example, descendants of Mikvé Israel helped establish the Touro Synagogue in Newport, Rhode Island—the oldest synagogue in the United States.
The Role of Women: Historical records show that Jewish women in Curaçao played active roles in the community, managing family businesses, and participating in philanthropic endeavors. One notable woman, Ribca Da Costa Gomez, is remembered for her significant contributions to education and welfare.
A Beacon During the Holocaust: During World War II, Curaçao’s Jewish community provided refuge for European Jews fleeing Nazi persecution. The synagogue became a rallying point for charitable efforts, helping to sustain those who found safety on the island.
Jewish Pirates: The story of Jewish pirates in the Caribbean is a fascinating chapter of resilience and revenge. Driven from Spain and Portugal by the Inquisition, many Sephardic Jews sought refuge in the New World, where some took to piracy to fight back against their persecutors. Figures like Moses Cohen Henriques, who helped capture a Spanish treasure fleet in 1628, and Samuel Pallache, a diplomat-turned-privateer, embodied this audacious spirit. These "Jewish Pirates of the Caribbean" not only plundered Spanish ships but also aided Jewish refugees and established trading networks that linked the Americas, Europe, and Africa. Flying the Lion of Judah on their flags and observing Jewish traditions at sea, they turned piracy into an act of survival and defiance, leaving a legacy as unexpected as it is intriguing.
Visiting Today
Mikvé Israel-Emanuel remains an active synagogue, welcoming global and local worshippers for Shabbat services on Fridays and Saturdays. Tourists can explore the synagogue and museum from Tuesday to Friday, with an admission fee of $10. Walking through its sand-covered floors, surrounded by centuries-old artifacts, is both a spiritual and historical journey, offering a glimpse into the resilience of a community that has endured for nearly 400 years.
Preserving the Jewish Past
Today, the remnants of these communities are fragile but enduring. The Mikvé Israel-Emanuel Synagogue in Curaçao is lovingly maintained, as are the Jewish cemeteries of Jamaica. Yet, as the number of practicing Jews in the Caribbean dwindles, preserving their legacy has fallen to historians, preservationists, and Jewish diaspora organizations.
The story of the Jews in the Caribbean is one of survival and adaptation, of exile and opportunity. It is also a story of contradictions: pirates with Hebrew prayers on their lips, traders who became abolitionists, and settlers who shaped the fortunes of islands far from their ancestral homes.
Notable Landmarks and Cultural Heritage
Hunt’s Bay Cemetery, Jamaica
Tucked away near Kingston Harbor lies the Hunt’s Bay Cemetery, one of the oldest Jewish burial grounds in the Americas. Established in the 17th century, it reflects the resilience of Jamaica’s Jewish community during both Spanish and British rule. The gravestones, etched with Hebrew and Ladino inscriptions, offer a glimpse into the lives of early settlers. Preservation efforts are underway, but the site remains at risk due to neglect and environmental threats.
Mikvé Israel-Emanuel Synagogue, Curaçao
Known locally as the Snoa, the Mikvé Israel-Emanuel Synagogue in Willemstad is a stunning relic of Caribbean Jewish history. Built in 1732, it boasts striking chandeliers, mahogany furnishings, and a sand-covered floor, a poignant tribute to the secret worship of Jews during the Inquisition. The synagogue is part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site and remains a functioning place of worship, as well as a magnet for tourists.
Jewish Historical Museum, Curaçao
Adjacent to the synagogue, the Jewish Historical Museum houses artifacts that narrate the history of Sephardic Jews in the Caribbean. Visitors can explore Torah scrolls, silver ritual objects, and family documents dating back to the 17th century. The museum serves as both an educational resource and a preservation hub.
Jewish Pirate Haven, Brazil
Off the coast of Brazil lies an island rumored to have been the hideout of Moses Cohen Henriques, the legendary Jewish pirate. Though no permanent structures remain, local folklore and treasure hunters keep the story alive. It serves as a romantic symbol of Sephardic defiance against Spain and Portugal’s oppression.
Preservation Efforts
The Jewish communities of the Caribbean are now much smaller than they were in their heyday. Emigration to the United States, Israel, and other regions has reduced their numbers, leaving behind cultural landmarks that risk being forgotten.
Current Initiatives
Restoration Projects: Organizations like the American Sephardi Federation have partnered with local communities to restore sites such as the Hunt’s Bay Cemetery and Curaçao’s Jewish archives.
UNESCO Recognition: Curaçao’s Jewish sites are part of the island’s UNESCO World Heritage designation, ensuring some level of protection and funding.
Educational Outreach: Caribbean museums, such as the Jewish Historical Museum in Curaçao, are working to raise awareness about Jewish contributions to the region through exhibitions, lectures, and school programs.
Cultural Tourism: Guided tours of historical Jewish landmarks in Jamaica, Curaçao, and Barbados have become a niche tourism market, bringing both funding and attention to these sites.
Organizations Leading Preservation Efforts
American Sephardi Federation (ASF)
The ASF works globally to preserve and promote the heritage of Sephardic Jews. In the Caribbean, they support restoration projects like the Hunt’s Bay Cemetery in Jamaica and the archives of Mikvé Israel-Emanuel in Curaçao.
Website: sephardi.org
Caribbean Volunteer Expeditions (CVE)
This organization engages volunteers in preserving Caribbean heritage, including Jewish sites. Past projects have included documenting gravestones in Jamaica and Curaçao to prevent historical loss.
Website: caribbeanvolunteers.org
The United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization (UNESCO)
UNESCO's designation of Curaçao’s Willemstad as a World Heritage Site includes protections for the Mikvé Israel-Emanuel Synagogue and surrounding Jewish sites. They provide resources and international attention to preservation.
Website: unesco.org
Jewish Historical Museum (Curaçao)
Located next to the Mikvé Israel-Emanuel Synagogue, this museum collects, preserves, and displays artifacts of Jewish life in the Caribbean. It actively engages with tourists and scholars.
Website: snoa.com
Recommended Books on Caribbean Jewish History
“Jewish Pirates of the Caribbean” by Edward Kritzler
This engaging read explores the role of Sephardic Jews in piracy, trade, and resistance to Spanish rule. Kritzler weaves tales of adventure with deep historical research.
“The Jewish Nation of the Caribbean” by Mordechai Arbell
Arbell provides a comprehensive overview of Jewish communities across the Caribbean, from their roots in the Spanish Inquisition to their flourishing in Dutch territories.
“Sephardi Lives: A Documentary History, 1700–1950” by Julia Phillips Cohen and Sarah Abrevaya Stein
Though not specific to the Caribbean, this collection of primary sources provides valuable context on the global Sephardic experience, including migration to the New World.
“Remnant Stones: The Jewish Cemeteries of Suriname” by Rachel Frankel and Adam V. Wilner
While focused on Suriname, this book’s exploration of Jewish burial traditions and epitaphs sheds light on shared practices across the Caribbean.
Online Resources and Archives
Jewish Virtual Library
A treasure trove of articles and resources on Jewish history in the Americas, including a section dedicated to the Caribbean.
Website: jewishvirtuallibrary.org
Bevis Marks Synagogue Archives
Based in London, this archive holds records related to Sephardic Jews, including Caribbean communities, reflecting their ties to British and Dutch trade networks.
Website: sephardi.org.uk
Digital Jewish Monuments
A project documenting Jewish cemeteries worldwide, including several in the Caribbean.
Website: jewishmonuments.com
Get Involved
Donate: Contribute to organizations like the ASF or the Jewish Historical Museum to support preservation and educational initiatives.
Visit: Tourism is a vital source of funding for maintaining Jewish sites. Visit Curaçao, Jamaica, or Suriname to see these historical landmarks firsthand.
Advocate: Raise awareness about the threats facing Caribbean Jewish heritage by sharing information and encouraging others to support preservation efforts.
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