Mikvé Israel-Emanuel Synagogue
Mikvé Israel-Emanuel (Mikvé Israel) Synagogue, located at Hanchi Snoa 29 in downtown Willemstad, Curaçao, is the oldest continuously functioning Jewish house of worship in the Western Hemisphere. This incredible building, dating back to 1732, is a symbol of the island’s important Sephardic Jewish community.
The History and Lesser-Known Stories of the Synagogue
The roots of Curaçao’s Jewish community trace back to Samuel Cohen, who arrived in 1634 as an interpreter for Johan van Walbeeck during the Dutch conquest of the island. In 1651, a group of 10 to 12 families from Amsterdam’s Sephardic Portuguese community, led by Joao d’Ylan, settled on the island as agricultural pioneers. These settlers were descendants of Spanish and Portuguese Jews who had fled the Inquisition, seeking refuge in the Netherlands.
By 1654, these families had established Congregation Mikvé Israel. They brought with them a Torah scroll, a gift from the Amsterdam Jewish community, which remains in use today—an extraordinary testament to the continuity of their traditions.
As Curaçao became a critical hub of trade between Northern Europe and South America, its Jewish population flourished, reaching about 1,500 by the mid-1700s. The Jews of Curaçao played pivotal roles in commerce, shipping, and even the expansion of Jewish communities across the Americas, including influential migrations to Suriname, the United States, and the Caribbean.
The Synagogue Building
The current synagogue, inaugurated in 1732, replaced earlier structures built to accommodate the growing congregation. Modeled after the Portuguese Synagogue in Amsterdam (constructed in 1675), it reflects the grandeur and architectural elegance of the Sephardic tradition.
Imported Materials: The synagogue was built with materials brought over by ship from the Netherlands, including mahogany wood for the ark, benches, and bimah, as well as the stunning copper chandeliers. One chandelier, believed to have come from the previous building, hangs closest to the ark and retains a unique historical charm.
Sand-Covered Floors: One of the synagogue's most intriguing features is its sand-covered floor. While its exact origins remain debated, two prevailing interpretations lend it symbolic weight:
The sand represents the 40 years the Israelites spent wandering in the desert during the Exodus.
It commemorates the clandestine worship practices of Jews during the Inquisition, who used sand to muffle the sounds of their prayers in secret.
Whatever its origins, the sand-covered floor creates a profound and unique spiritual atmosphere, allowing worshippers to feel a direct connection to their ancestors’ struggles and faith.
Mahogany and Azure: The synagogue's dark mahogany wood contrasts beautifully with its azure stained-glass windows, which bathe the interior in soft blue light. This harmonious blend of materials and colors evokes both reverence and tranquility.
Rituals
The synagogue follows the Sephardic tradition, blending Portuguese and Hebrew in its liturgy. Each Torah service begins with a blessing in Portuguese for the Royal House of Orange, a tradition that acknowledges the protection granted to Jewish settlers by the Dutch monarchy.
The governance of the synagogue in its early years extended beyond religious matters. Board members, seated in a raised section under the clock, mediated disputes and served as de facto judges in civil matters. Their elevated position, near the synagogue's windows, also gave them access to the coolest spot in the building—a subtle nod to their authority.
Hanchi Snoa Street
Fun fact: The synagogue street’s name, Hanchi Snoa, is a combination of Hanchi, the local Creole word for alley, and Snoa, an abbreviation of Esnoga, the traditional Judaeo-Spanish (Sephardic) word for synagogue.)
The Schism of 1863
The mid-19th century brought challenges to the synagogue as the Reform movement, originating in Germany, began influencing Jewish communities worldwide. Younger members of Mikvé Israel, inspired by modernist ideas, sought changes to traditional practices. However, the Orthodox leadership resisted these calls for reform, leading to a schism in 1863.
The dissenting group formed Temple Emanuel, a Reform congregation that introduced innovations such as an organ in their services. To keep pace, Mikvé Israel also installed an organ—the same one still in use today. Crafted in Holland, it is one of the oldest functioning pipe organs in the world.
The two congregations coexisted separately until 1963, when dwindling membership prompted reunification, exactly 100 years after their division. Today, while Mikvé Israel retains its Sephardic heritage, about 30% of its members are Ashkenazi, reflecting the diverse backgrounds of Curaçao’s Jewish community.
The Museum
The synagogue complex includes the Jewish Historical Cultural Museum, which houses an impressive collection of religious and cultural artifacts. Among its treasures is a silver Chanukiah that has been lit annually for over 300 years, as well as centuries-old marriage contracts, prayer books, and ritual items that provide a window into the lives of Curaçao’s Jewish ancestors.
Anecdotes and Lesser-Known Stories
Breaking the glass: The shul is host to many guests who pick Curacao as a destination for weddings and Bat and Bar Mitzvahs. One lovely wedding ceremony is the breaking of the glass. Instead of crushing the glass on the floor (which is not practical in the sand), the groom smashes the glass on a silver tray (which is well dented :)
Portuguese in Prays: One of the shul’s unique features is the use of Portuguese in its prayers, a tradition that dates back to the 17th century when Sephardic Jews fleeing the Inquisition brought their Iberian customs and language to the New World. Portuguese was the mother tongue of many of the Jewish families.
The Congregation’s Role in the Diaspora: Curaçao's Jews were instrumental in founding Jewish communities elsewhere. For example, descendants of Mikvé Israel helped establish the Touro Synagogue in Newport, Rhode Island—the oldest synagogue in the United States.
The Role of Women: Historical records show that Jewish women in Curaçao played active roles in the community, managing family businesses, and participating in philanthropic endeavors. One notable woman, Ribca Da Costa Gomez, is remembered for her significant contributions to education and welfare.
A Beacon During the Holocaust: During World War II, Curaçao’s Jewish community provided refuge for European Jews fleeing Nazi persecution. The synagogue became a rallying point for charitable efforts, helping to sustain those who found safety on the island.
Visiting Today
Mikvé Israel-Emanuel remains an active synagogue, welcoming global and local worshippers for Shabbat services on Fridays and Saturdays. Tourists can explore the synagogue and museum from Tuesday to Friday, with an admission fee of $10. Walking through its sand-covered floors, surrounded by centuries-old artifacts, is both a spiritual and historical journey, offering a glimpse into the resilience of a community that has endured for nearly 400 years.
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